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It’s interesting that when Jesus talks about eternal life he begins by talking about something else.

When Jesus speaks about living into eternal moments he gives us stuff that we can do before the day is up.

"Are we doing something in Oklahoma?" one of our members asked me at a meeting this week. She was pretty sure the answer would be "yes," and it was. The "we" she was referring to, of course, wasn't either one of us - she wanted to make sure "we" were at the site of the devastating tornado in Moore, in the form of relief workers from the United Methodist Committee on Relief.

On April 22 just as the sun climbed over the eastern mountains, the Copacabana Cathedral bells rang frantically for nearly an hour, signaling a major crisis and summoning the entire town.

Overnight, thieves had broken into the 430-year-old cathedral’s Chapel of the Dark Virgin of the Lake, Copa’s patron saint. They stole the Virgin’s golden crown and a gold crescent moon, each weighing over 3 kilos (about 6.6 pounds). They took her velvet gown, adorned with sacred ornaments and precious jewels, along with gold- crowned Baby Jesus. Initial estimates pegged the loss at over $1 million USD, then over $2 million; the latest: over $20 million. Cathedral congregants are holding round-the-clock vigils to pray for the return of the stolen items, and forgiveness of the thieves. Townspeople often cry when they talk of the sacrilege. Many have closed their businesses in mourning. Last week Copa’s ten zona (zone) presidents called for mandatory overnight vigils inside the cathedral – every household had to muster at least one adult, or pay a 200 Boliviano fine (about $30, or roughly a week’s average income). At 7:30 p.m. last Thursday, carrying lanterns and candles and led by our zona’s green and yellow banner and the Virgin’s burgundy and gold standard, we and about 250 of our neighbors formally marched to the town’s central plaza. We circled the plaza singing Ave Maria, stopping at each corner to chant Hail Marys, the Lord’s Prayer, and the Apostle’s Creed.

At 6:30 a.m. last Thursday we heard rallying chants from the military police gathering in Copa’s main plaza. Soon afterward, the roar of truck and bus engines broke the morning quiet. As they’d done since last Monday morning, the troops headed back up into the mountains to guard the road from La Paz.

About two hours later loads of residents gathered in the plaza to salute a select delegation headed out to the lake – neutral territory where protesters couldn’t reach them – to try to hammer out a solution to the problem. The delegation included representatives from Copacabana, the peninsula’s four sectors, and Tiquina and Tito Yupanqui, the two villages vying for a bridge over Lake Titicaca connecting to La Paz, Copa, and millions of tourist dollars. The delegation was 100% male.

There were actually two different blockades. The first one, from March 25 to April 7, was mandated by the provincial government in protest over the rogue piracy of boat pilots who ferry people and vehicles across the Strait of Tiquina. By crossing at Tiquina, the 70-mile trip from La Paz takes about 3.5 hours. The pilots randomly raise rates, spontaneously strike, and take dangerous risks. One can avoid the strait by crossing into Perú, curving around the southern tip of the lake and re-entering Bolivia, for a 9-hour trip. So the other point of the first blockade was to demand a bridge be built over the Strait of Tiquina.

The second blockade, from April 8 to 12, was a counter-protest staged by the people of Tito Yupanqui. Someone might have foolishly promised them a triple-span bridge would land in their village, linking La Paz and Copa. That route would have lopped off a third of the time and distance between La Paz and Copa, and of course, it would have sky-rocketed tiny Tito Yupanqui’s economy. More likely the people of Tito Yupanqui saw foreign engineers conducting months-long feasibility studies, and concluded, wrongly, that the bridge would be theirs. Alas, the studies showed a triple bridge there would seriously harm the sacred lake, and would cost $600 million USD. When the first blockade was resolved with the decision to build a $200 million bridge at Tiquina, the people of Tito Yupanqui blamed Copacabana.

For more than half a millennium Copacabana has drawn thousands of South American, especially Bolivian, Catholic pilgrims during Holy Week. They come to worship at the world-famous Cathedral, to seek blessings and favors from the Virgin of Copacabana, and to climb Calvario – some on their knees – praying at the Stations of the Cross on the way up (more on this a bit later). Last year, our little village, population 8,000, hosted 40,000 pilgrims.

This year, no one came!

Blockades strangled Copa on both main roads leading from here north to Puno, Perú, and south to La Paz. Vendors, like our friend Teodora at left, who’d overstocked in anticipation of the usual mobs are glum or testy. For the past five days the municipality has mandated that all shops close in sympathy with the blockades. Though towards the end of the week, some vendors rebelled, either discreetly filling orders or inviting customers into their half-closed shops. Perishables, normally trucked in daily from La Paz, have been depleted; only rotting fruits and vegetables remain, sold by a handful of vendors who dare defy the obligatory strike. With virtually all restaurants and curb-side food vendors shuttered, the
normally docile street dogs are hungry and aggressive. The hotels, hostels and most tourist sites are empty. The Cathedral is gated and locked, something we’ve never seen.

The blockades were imposed by the provincial government. Participation, including ours, is mandatory (those who don’t attend will be fined 250 Bolivianos, about $36, or roughly two weeks’ average pay). On Wednesday, we and all the neighbors from our zona and the one next to ours were required to man two blockades on the La Paz road. Wednesday night about 1,000 protested at Copa’s main plaza. On Thursday, two other zonas staged a mandatory protest higher up the mountain road to La Paz. The town arranged for 12 buses to carry them up and back again, 7 hours later.

In the 19th century, when it was established that life had begun in the oceans, some scientists reasoned that the earliest forms of life might still be there, hidden in the deep, dark depths of the ocean. Folks thought that there in that world of darkness lay the first forms of life. They even had a name for that oceanic nursery; they called it "Urschleim," choosing a German name to give it scientific respectability.

Last week was fun, busy and tiring. Pastor Orlando Moller, a United Methodist Pastor and dual citizen of Bolivia and the US, led a three- day theological course for about 40 regional church leaders – a few came from as far away as Oruro, about a 9 hour bus ride. Bishop Javier Rojas came from La Paz for the kick-off. Unfortunately, due to health problems with the District Coordinator in Perú, none of the Peruvian church leaders were able to attend.

Pastor Orlando is a natural teacher – animated, playful, well read, and mindful of his students. He did a masterful job of coaching the attendees. Nearly all local churches are led by lay pastors who’ve had only minimal education – most are carpenters, shepherds or fishermen. They’ve had virtually no seminary training, and have minimal experience and training in pastoral care and leadership. Some speak only Aymara. A few are illiterate. But they are church leaders. And their congregations depend on them, especially in times of trouble. Orlando inspired, stretched and fed their spirits and minds.

At the end of Day 2, we recall a multitude of accomplishments that we did not foresee.   Our bus driver received the nickname, Mr. Wonderful, a few years ago from another choir ensemble.  They were traveling in the New England area during a series of winter snowstorms, Jeff made them a promise that they would not have to have to suffer walking through a storm while dressed in their long black gowns.  The week of storms took pause each time they gave their concerts.   Mr. Wonderful travels took us through 5 different states and some heavy rain storms.  Just as his name promised, the rains would stop for each of our travel and lunch breaks.

Kick off at DGFUMC with introduction of bus driver Jeff, goodbyes to family and blessing of the tour by Katie Kiss.  All the luggage, equipment and food were packed on the bus for departure at 6 AM.  We toured Southern Illinois University campus upon arrival in Carbondale.  Dinner was provided by members of the Carbondale United Methodist Church.  They served the world’s best smoked barbeque baked beans, pulled pork, salad and many fresh vegetables.  Red velvet cake and brownies were served to celebrate birthdays for Kelsey, Leah, Luke and Rebecca.  Then we left with our host families and had a great time. I know from my first experience that the families were fantastic.  I slept well and woke up to eggs and bacon.  It doesn’t get much better than that.  The church showed us great hospitality and we all are truly grateful to be a part of their service this morning.

A Journey to Grace

Saturday morning, March 23, parents, grandparents and friends will be sending a wonderful group of young people to the city of New Orleans.  These young men and women will share their voices and the word of God each day until they return on March 30.  We will communicate with you each day with short messages about the activities we have participated in during the day.  In the past, we found that the ability to post a blog entry each day may be technically challenged.  This year we are adding Facebook and Twitter to our communication tools.  I am not very savvy with these newer electronic forms of communication, so wish us luck.Grant Dunderman and Wes Davenport will be coordinating our communications with you during our tour.  We hope our stories entertain and inform as we travel across the country.  We will be transported into a new world as we enter the Bayou country of south Louisiana.